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On what temperature
should I set my thermostat?
There is no certain temperature that will meet everyone’s comfort
level. The system is designed to maintain 70 degrees inside when the
outside temperature is 10 degrees in the winter. It is also designed
to maintain 75 degrees when it is 95 degrees outside. The whole point
in having a system in your home is for you to be comfortable; therefore,
set the thermostat on whatever setting it takes you to be comfortable.
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How
often should I change my air filter?
If you have a fiberglass throwaway filter, you should change it every
30 days. The filter helps keep your duct system, motors, and coils
stay cleaner longer. I recommend that you change the filter when you
get your electric bill. If you do not change your filter, your electric
bill will increase. The same is true if you own an electrostatic or
electronic air cleaner. They need to be washed every 30 days to remain
efficient. |
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Why
does a heat pump blow out cold air?
The air temperature leaving your register should not be less than
85 degrees. Even though the air temperature coming out of the register
is 85 degrees your body temperature is 98.6. The 85-degree air will
feel cool. The problem is not the air temperature but the location
and type of register being used. Sometimes a deflector or changing
the type of register being used can increase your comfort level. The
answer to being comfortable even though your heat pump air is cooler
is not to feel it blowing out of the register – 85-degree air
will keep your home comfortable. Remember we are talking about the
very least air temperature. When the outside temperature is above
45 degrees, the air from your register should be in the high 90 degrees
range. |
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How
often should I have my system cleaned?
To most people's surprise, airborne dirt and household lint cause
the most problems with your system. Even if you change your filters
every 30 days, 90 percent of the airborne particles go through your
throwaway air filter. These particles will collect on your blower
motor, blower wheel, and indoor coil. Air cleaners help but particles
still get through. Your outdoor coils get dust, pollen, and grass
clippings. These particles will become an insulator and have a huge
effect on the operation of your system.
It is recommended that a Heating and Air Condition system, be thoroughly
cleaned twice a year to be sure that the system is operating to its
full efficiency rating.
It takes special coil cleaners to remove all the particles and bacteria
that collect on the parts of the system. |
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| Glossary of
Terms |
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AFUE - Annual Fuel
Utilization Efficiency. A measure of a gas furnace's efficiency
in converting fuel to energy. The higher the rating, the more efficient
the unit. For example: A rating of 90 means that approximately 90
percent of the fuel is used to provide warmth to your home, while
the remaining 10 percent escapes as exhaust.
BTU - British Thermal Unit. This
is the amount of heat it takes to raise one pound of water one degree
Fahrenheit. For your home, it represents the measure of heat given
off when fuel is burned for heating or the measure of heat extracted
from your home for cooling.
CFM - Cubic Feet Per Minute. A standard
measurement of airflow. A typical system requires 400 CFM per ton
of air conditioning.
Capacity - The output or producing
ability of a piece of cooling or heating equipment. Cooling and
heating capacities are referred to on BTUs.
Comfort-R™ Airflow System -
An exclusive feature of a high efficiency home comfort system from
Trane. This method of ramping airflow gives you greater humidity
control in cooling and provides warmer air during heating startup.
Compressor - The heart of an air
conditioning or heat pump system. It is part of the outdoor unit
and pumps refrigerant in order to meet the cooling requirements
of the system.
Condensor Coil or Outdoor Coil -
In an air conditioner, the coil dissipates heat from the refrigerant,
changing the refrigerant from vapor to liquid. In a heat pump system,
it absorbs heat from the outdoors.
Damper - Found in ductwork, this
movable plate opens and closes to control airflow. Dampers can be
used to balance airflow in a duct system. They are also used in
zoning to regulate airflow to certain rooms.
Ductwork - Pipes or channels that
carry air throughout your home. In a home comfort system, ductwork
is critical to performance - in fact, it's as critical as the equipment.
Evaporator Coil or Indoor Coil -
The other half of your air conditioning system located inside your
home in the indoor unit. This is where the refrigerant evaporates
as it absorbs heat from the air that passes over the coil.
Gas Furnace Heat Exchanger - Located
in the furnace, the heat exchanger transfers heat to the surrounding
air, which is then pumped throughout your home
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HSPF - Heating Seasonal Performance
Factor. This rating is used in measuring the heating efficiency
of a heat pump. The higher the number, the more efficient the unit.
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Package Unit - A heating and cooling system contained in
one outdoor unit. A package unit is typically installed either beside,
on top of the home, or sometimes in the attic.
Refrigerant - A chemical that produces
a refrigerating effect while expanding and vaporizing. Most residential
air conditioning systems contain R-22 refrigerant. R-22 is regulated
by international controls under the Montreal Protocol and in the
United States by the Environmental Protection Agency. It is scheduled
to be in production until the year 2020. It's used in approximately
95 percent of air conditioning equipment manufactured in the U.S.
today.
SEER - Seasonal Energy Efficiency
Ratio. A measure of cooling efficiency for air conditioners and
heat pumps. The higher the SEER, the more energy efficient the unit.
The government's minimum SEER rating is 10. (It's similar to comparing
miles per gallon in automobiles.)
SEET - Seasonal Extreme Environmental
Test Lab. This is Trane's torture chamber for heating and air conditioning
systems, where five years of service are condensed into 16 torturous
weeks. If a product doesn't make it through our SEET lab, it's not
manufactured. We push our equipment to extremes because we'd rather
test them in our lab than in your home.
Split System - The combination of
an outdoor unit (air conditioner or heat pump) with an indoor unit
(furnace or air handler). Split systems must be matched for optimum
efficiency.
Thermostat - A thermostat consists
of a series of sensors and relays that monitor and control the functions
of a heating and cooling system.
Ton - A unit of measurement used
for determining cooling capacity. One ton is the equivalent of 12,000
BTUs per hour.
Zoning - A method of dividing a home
into different comfort zones so each zone can be independently controlled
depending on use and need. |
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| 10 Time-Proven
Tips For Selecting A Dealer |
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- Check credentials. Before making your selection, call the Better
Business Bureau to make sure the dealer is reputable. Also, find
out if the dealer is a member of a local or national association
such as the Air Conditioning Contractors Association of America.
- Make sure the dealer is affiliated with a nationally known manufacturer.
Dealers should be taking advantage of factory training offered
by their manufacturer. As a result, when they make recommendations,
you can be more assured that they've selected the right size system
for your home, and that they've been trained in installation and
service.
- Ask for references. Former customers are an excellent source
of information. Also, ask to see installation photos. A dealer
who is proud of his work will be more than happy to show it to
you.
- Expect an on-site evaluation of your home. A good dealer will
take a thorough look at your home, ask questions, and evaluate
your overall comfort needs before making a recommendation. Beware
of a dealer that simply takes information over the phone. A good
dealer will also look the part. While he's evaluating your home,
you should be evaluating him. Not only should he dress professionally,
but his truck and printed materials should look professional as
well.
- Check local licenses. Depending on where you live, dealers may
have to comply with certain local or state regulations, so ask
to see proof of these licenses as well as insurance forms for
liability and workmen's compensation.
- Don't be afraid to ask questions. Ask for details about the
firm's experience and the expertise of its staff. This is particularly
important if you're also adding or changing ductwork - in this
case, experience is definitely a factor in getting the job done
correctly.
- Get a written proposal. To make a fair comparison, make sure
the proposals you receive are all based on the same efficiency
and equipment. You'll also want to evaluate each dealer's personal
business standards and policies. For example, will he remove old
equipment? Will he relocate equipment if you want your new system
installed in a different location? What are his cleanup and care
policies during installation? How will he handle emergency repair?
These are just a few of the additional elements a good proposal
will include.
- Inquire about equipment and labor warranties. Limited warranties
vary according to the manufacturer, so make sure you fully understand
what you're getting. Also, don't forget to inquire about manufacturer's
extended warranties at the time of purchase and other warranties
provided by the dealer.
- Ask about preventive maintenance service contracts. Many dealers
offer service contracts that call for periodic maintenance of
equipment, and if needed, repairs. The fee for such contracts
is usually well worth it in terms of obtaining optimum efficiency
and performance for your system.
- Finally insist on a written contract. Commit your agreement
to writing and have the dealer sign it.
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